Table of contents
How to make Dry Sift Hash:
The Shake method
- A jar the size of a 16 oz pickle jar or a medium sized tupperware container.
- Rubber bands
- Panty hose (nylons)
- A smooth, hard surface to shake over and scrape from. I use a glass table.
- Some kind bud
Remove most of the stems and break up the bud as much as you want. I personally don't break it up much, I like to just let it pulverize against itself in the shaker. This leaves some of the buds interior intact for the oil I like to isomeritize. You can use this with trim leaf as well, but that I cut up until its like grass clippings before shaking. Adding an agitator has been known to speed things up, but with the nylon you may get a lot more excess material since its not intended to be a screen.
Now take your hose and trim the toe off. Cut it the length of the leg piece, enough to fit well over the top of your container. It'll leave a "V" in the fabric. Fit this around one edge. You can see the V through the plastic container.
I leave this much slack because the tautness of the nylon across the top is critical and the extra allows you to adjust.
You'll need to adjust after securing the nylon with the rubber band. Its not as easy as it sounds. We want it tight, but not like a bongo drum. The tighter you pull it the larger your mesh will be, the more non-psychoactive material falls through.
Now comes the fun part. Shaking the tub. May not sound like much fun, but when, after 10 minutes you get a pile like this, you'll be much better motivated to keep shaking.
This is an example of a first shake and a 7th shake. The white pile is almost pure trichomes, as pure as can be expected using panty hose. The greenish pile will still be better than much of the decent street hash out there.
This took about an hour of shaking. The pile are in order clockwise, starting top L. You can see how they green up as you go along. If you change the screen every 20 minutes or so, a lot of this may be avoided. As the bud stems become exposed, they begin poking holes in the nylon as you shake. This may improve the purity somewhat.
That's it, I hope this helps all those like me, who have a hard time finding 120 mesh silk screen.
Using a Bubblebox
The bubblebox is a three screen box, that allows you not only to extract the resins thru dry sift technique's, but also to clean and seperate out into a few grades. MY main interest in releasing this box was to teach people how they could turn the small amounts of dry sift they are currently making, either from their joint rolling or the breaking up of bud for vaporizing, into a full melt product. Producing a full melt dry sift is not as easy as it may seem> it can be done with single screens sometimes, but the key word there is SOMETIMES. The colder it is for dry sifting the better.
The top screen is a 120lpi-140u and is for breaking up your nugget on top of. Gland heads and contaminant will fall thru this one, ( this is the grade of dry sift most people smoke), but we are gonna clean it up once it drops to the next screen.
The next screen is the 140lpi-107u, This screen will push thru the majority of our heads that are below 106 microns. My favorite gland heads and the ones i find the most melty are often found between the 106 and 70u. YOu will want to gently take your card( that comes with the box or any plastic card you have handy) and swaft if back and forth over the resin. this will push thru any heads that are smaller than 107u and leave any contaminant or heads that are larger. For me the grade that is left on this second screen, is PERFECT for vaporizing. it seems to be a good ratio of glands to plant matter for perfect vapo hits. ONce you are done with this screen, you get to the final and last screen the 200lpi-70u. Now many of you may be confused but this will be your full melt dry sift ( the heads that stay on TOP of this screen), now common sense tells us the best will be on the plate below the final screen, but actualy those will be much smalller heads and contaminant.
This final screen can take time, so be patient, the longer you push the card around gently with these heads, the cleaner a product you will get. The 70u and bigger heads won't push thru the screen as you are gently pushing the resin around the scren with the card. The contaminant and smaller heads will go thru, but the larger heads will sit nicely on top of your screen> YOu know you are getting close when the dry sift is sparkling like diamonds. this is what we are looking for. If you want to know how close your getting, once you see that lovely sparkling you can try a little hit and see what it does. YOu can see by the photo's after about fifteen minutes of gently rubbing the resin back and forth ( gently because if you do it hard, you will heat up the resin and depending on its purity it will start to melt). I put a little into my roor and light it with a match gently and as you can see, its melting lovely. ON the bottom plate of your box, you will find a very light material, this is mostly smaller heads and contaminant, still great for adding to joints ( if you smoke them ) or cooking with.
Using a Flat Screen
Flat screens are just that: a flat piece of screen stretched taut and fastened to a frame. This is a really basic way of making hash, but that doesn’t mean the quality has to suffer. At your local art store ask for nylon silkscreen and what micron they have available. A 110-micron screen is optimum, but anything in the 60–140 micron range works fine. Small prefabricated screens and frames are usually available at art supply stores for screen-printing, although most places keep 110-120 off the order sheet. If you want to keep your mission stealth, ask for the proper mesh size instead of microns, as that’s the method of calculating size art stores tend to use. Mesh size counts opposite to that of microns, so the larger the number the tighter the screen with mesh. About 120 is the crossover point where they are both about the same (and for dry sieve the best size to go with), but 80-140 threads per square inch (100-175 micron) is useable. A 325-threads-per-square-inch (tpsi) mesh size is equivalent to the 45-micron lower bag that catches the small gland heads. The main 70-micron catch bag in most sets is about 200 tpsi in mesh size, and the top strainer bags of 185 and 220 microns is 80 and 70 tpsi respectively. Given the option, take monofilament over the multifilament mesh. If no proper screen is available for this method, or that of the tumbler (below), a pair of pantyhose is a fine alternative. Not the best by any means but it will work. Stretch the panty hose to get larger holes, yielding more, but lower grade. I’ve seen people use sheets, t-shirts, coffee filters, and all sorts of other material, but the qualities were never that great. Take your screen material, stretch it over a container (bowl, plate, plastic food container), and keep it in place with elastic bands, tape, or clips. Place shake on top of the taut nylon mesh and drag the shake over the screen with a credit card, pressing it against the material so the resin heads come off. A glass table or mirror underneath makes the collection process much easier. Simply scrape up whatever you collect, and you’ve got flat screen hash.
The Drum stick method: